May 31 - June 4

May 31

We had a relaxing stay in Yankton on 5/30, where our camping neighbors became friends; we were brought together by the game they were playing, Hillbilly Golf (see photos). The idea was to throw the two balls joined by a string and get it to wrap around the lower (3 pts), middle (2 pts) or upper (1 pt) fence. I tried my hand and had some beginners luck, winning each game I played. I left camp early Memorial Day morning and for the first 10 miles rode along Lewis and Clark Lake, formed by the Gavins Point Dam of the Missouri. It was serene, with campers still sleeping, enjoying the last day of the Holiday before getting back to the grind. Yes, I was reminded of my quite fortunate circumstances that I did not have to return to work the following morning. I faced several miles of climbing after leaving the lakefront, but already my leg strength had improved making the climbs more pleasurable. It was a day of long, rolling hill stretches with the wind coming out of the southwest as I pedaled westward. For the last two hours of my ride, I was sure I would be hit by rain; the downdrafts were fierce, and I could see rain coming from the clouds in all directions. I would make plans each mile or so for my escape strategy from the oncoming storm- farmhouses, trees, sheds, etc., but the road ahead was mostly wide-open with few safe havens. When the rain did come, the storm had passed, and I only caught some light showers for about 10 minutes. I checked my directions with an old Sioux woman in Marty, SD, located on the reservation that the Yankton Sioux were given by the US Government with the Treaty of 1858. After completing 72 miles, Jamye and I met just outside of Pickstown, SD, where we found a beautiful campsite on Randall Creek.

June 1

Today brought the unexpected, and it was all good, except for the rain. At about 14 miles into my ride the skies darkened severely and lightening was all around. Jamye turned around and picked me up just before it began to pour. It was clear that the day would not be a biking day, so we decided that we would just ‘hang out’. We arrived in Burke, SD, and I was in the mood for a hamburger and a shake. After asking someone in town (population 676) where we could get a burger, we were directed to Pete’s Qwik Stop at the junction of Hwy 18 and Main St. We ordered our burgers, milkshakes, french fries for me and tater tots for Jamye. There were two long tables in the place, eight chairs around each table. We arrived at around 11:20, ahead of the lunch crowd. Pretty soon, the locals began to stream in and soon our table was at capacity. A very friendly man sat next to Jamye and began to ask us who we were and what we were doing. Dave Gnirk knew his Lewis and Clark history, and we soon began to talk about that and many other things about the area. Dave was a cattle rancher, always wanted to be one, even when he studied mechanical engineering at South Dakota School of Mines years after his brother attended the School of Mines. The most amazing thing was that he knew a close family friend of ours, Harvey Fraser, who was President of the College. Dave told of when, as class president, he persuaded Harvey to construct handicap friendly sidewalks on campus. In agreeing to do so, Harvey became an early adopter of what would eventually become law. Dave was a character; he was well-read and well -traveled. When he left his Burke circle of friends, he liked to tell people he was in real estate, since saying he was a farmer or cattle rancher was a non-starter. We soon became acquainted with the others at our table. Jerry Hutchison was born and raised in Burke; his father had claim-staked 160 acres in the area back in the 40’s. Jerry had owned and run the local drug store for 25 years and now was in the bee business. I briefly took a break from the discussion to pay our bill and found out that a fellow I had spoken with about 30 minutes earlier had paid for the fries and tater tots! When I returned to the table, Jerry was buying everyone a round of soft ice cream in cones…they were great. Then, after being told that we were only 3 miles from the best taxidermy business anywhere, Jerry offered to take us to see it. We were excited to be seeing more of this great community of Burke! Jerry drove us to Pete’s Taxidermy Inc. (www.petestaxidermy.com) for a grand tour (a different Pete from the Qwik Stop Pete). Now, I am not exaggerating, it was undoubtedly one of the best, if not the best taxidermy operations in the world! Evidently, hunters come from all over the US to this facility, just on the outskirts of Burke, SD. (check it out online). After that stop, Jerry took us to see his bee operation, Hutch’s Honey, a major producer of bulk honey. His sons and others were working in the facility manufacturing new boxes for hives. Jerry presented us with a bottle of honey and returned us to Pete’s Qwik Stop. Thank God for the rain! We had just met some of the finest people in South Dakota! If you are reading this blog, thanks again for the special visit with you in Burke! Jamye and I drove on to Snake Creek Park on Lake Francis Case (Missouri River), where I would begin my ride to Fort Thompson the next morning.

Jerry Hutchison showing us around Pete's Taxidermy

Skunk Bedspread (200 - 300 hides)

You can send any pair of shoes to Pete's and have them covered in bird feathers for $395!

Pete (of Pete's Taxidermy)

Constructing beehive boxes

June 2

It was a cold morning and it looked like rain, so I wore a rain jacket and started out at 7:30. The day before the wind had been coming out of the south; today, it was coming out of the north and my ride was mostly north…good training, I guess. The winds were strong, so much so that I had to pedal even when going downhill. The up hills were fairly wind-free, with the hills blocking the wind coming out of the north. The countryside was wide open, with views that would take your breath away. The Missouri came into my ken mid-day, reminding me that the River was never far from my route. The sky was particularly spectacular this day. The clouds reminded me of a painting that Jamye did back in the 80’s called Night into Day. When I saw her later in the afternoon, she remarked that she was reminded of that painting as well. The last few miles of my 71-mile ride into Ft. Thompson were on the Crow Creek Indian Reservation. The next day I would ride into Pierre, the capital, on the Lower Brule Sioux Indian Reservation.

June 3

Today, the grasses and I were mostly bent in the same direction; the strong southerly wind was perfect for the ride north. The terrain through the Lower Brule Sioux Indian Reservation was rolling, with downhills that took me at speeds over 40 mph. There was one downhill that was about 2 ½ miles long- sweet (I let out a few whoopees as it played out… no kidding). With the wind at my back, there were some flats where I could comfortably sustain 22+ mph…fun riding. I flushed up a rooster pheasant on the side of the road in the morning and another in the afternoon; I was as startled as they were. There was about a two mile stretch where prairie dogs were chirping as I passed by. I could see them as I approached, and as I got closer, they ducked into their holes. Each time I passed cows or horses, they would fixate on me until I was out of their sight. The countryside was stark yet beautiful. Jamye’s photos capture that beauty. As I pulled into Ft Pierre, completing another 71-mile day, Jamye was waiting for me in a parking lot at the entrance to town. We grabbed a quick coffee (no, not Starbuck’s…it hasn’t yet made it to South Dakota’s capital). A nice young cattle rancher Shannon and his wife, Sue, were also enjoying a coffee as a beginning to an evening celebration of their 21st wedding anniversary. Their seven children remained home so that Mom and Dad could have a quiet evening together. Jamye and I camped along waterfront for the third consecutive evening.

Shannon and Sue

June 4

Friday was a day of pheasants, ducks, clouds and grasses. I didn’t realize until today that the ring-necked pheasant is the state bird of South Dakota. I flushed up seven pheasants today, 4 roosters and 3 hens. I saw hundreds of ducks; they love it here in the marsh-like potholes with plentiful grass cover. I pedaled 62 miles and was glad to be finished. My legs need a day or two off. Next week we will hit North Dakota, continuing north until the Missouri takes a westward turn at Williston, ND. Jamye and I are immersed in the beauty of the Great Plains and agree that colors, sounds, clouds, and grasses that move in harmony with the wind each provide pleasures that can be missed when the conveniences man creates unwittingly diffuses and sometimes eliminates them.