June 7
We got a late start this morning because we had an adventure Sunday evening. We ran into Jim Schott while going out to eat dinner and the three of us had dinner together. Afterward, Jim drove us to see Sitting Bull’s grave, just across the river from Mobridge. Sitting Bull was killed in 1890 and was buried at Ft. Yates, ND. In 1953, a group of Mobridge residents stole Sitting Bull’s body, moved it to a prepared site and after burying the body in the new grave, covered it with cement so that it would remain there forever. There was no justification for this robbery; the motive was economic, presumably a way to attract tourism to Mobridge. The obelisk and bust of Sitting Bull on its apex was impressive. It was carved by Crazy Horse Monument (South Dakota) artist Korczak Ziolkowski. Thanks again to Jim for his hospitality! We got started at 9:30 Monday, but I still managed to get in a 72 mile ride. The weather was cool and overcast with light winds that made for a nice ride. We crossed into North Dakota early in the afternoon, the sixth state of our adventure (Missouri, Kansas, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota, and North Dakota). Today was my first meeting of other bicyclists on the trail (they were headed south). Two gentlemen from Madison, Wisconsin were on a three-week ride covering parts of Montana and the Dakotas. They were loaded down with gear. One was riding a recumbent and carried 60 pounds of gear; the other was on a steel-framed 20-speed and carried 50 pounds. They were in amazing shape for their ages - 72 and 73. The 72-year old had completed several transcontinental treks. Today I noticed that the hills were less troublesome; I was better conditioned for hilly terrain. I passed Jamye several times, and she arrived at our destination, Beaver Creek, ND, only 15 minutes prior to me. She has loved the opportunities to photograph the beauty that surrounds us. The photos she has taken will no doubt be what she draws from when she begins to paint.
White Pelicans
June 8
I rode 40 miles into Bismarck this morning, where Jamye and I met. We went to the post office to pick up some forwarded mail, then to Wal-Mart for more supplies. We did find a Starbucks and had our fixes before leaving for Washburn. It was 4PM and the 21-mile ride was the toughest yet. I was heading into 30 mph winds with gusts of at least 50 mph. It took me about two hours and 15 minutes to go 21 miles. It was during this portion of the day I decided I would henceforth be grateful for the wind, no matter the direction. I came up with the following thoughts on the wind.
To embrace the wind is to live the moment . . . When it is headed directly toward me, it strengthens me . . . When it is at my back, it propels me . . . When at my side, it improves my balance . . . It cools me on a hot day . . . It transports the fragrances of the land . . . It makes the landscape shimmer with life.
And I am reminded of an oft quoted expression of my friend Tom, “When there is no wind, row”.
Another fond memory is of a time when my daughter Emily and I were going to pick up my registration for the 2007 Memphis in May Triathlon. On the way in the car, I told Emily that I also wanted to make an assessment of the wind. She stuck her hand out of the sunroof and declared, “Dad, it’s pretty windy!” We both laughed.
June 9
I began the morning by 8:15 and completed 70 miles by early afternoon. My new attitude toward the wind was tested, and I am glad to say that attitude is, indeed, the biggest part of the battle. There were headwinds, but no matter. I saw my first antelope today in the morning and then a group (see photo) in the afternoon. They like the wide-open spaces; today was just that. I crossed the Missouri River twice today, once at Garrison Dam and once as I came into our campsite on Lake Audubon on a bridge dividing Lake Sakakawea and Lake Audubon. Tomorrow and Friday will be the final riding days this week; Jamye and I will visit Teddy Roosevelt National Park (Badlands) this weekend.
Photo Larry took of fawn on side of road
Larry also took photo of antelope (also known around here as prairie goats)
(Double click any picture to enlarge)
June 10
My will was really tested this morning. The lake was white capping from high winds and it was sprinkling. I wanted another 70 mile day, so I bundled up with raingear and leg warmers and took off. About 10 minutes into my ride, it began to pour and didn’t let up for nearly two hours. The good news was I had favorable winds pushing me along. By 11AM the rain stopped, but it remained overcast all day. I really started to enjoy the ride once the rain stopped. I saw two eagles, one golden eagle flew by fairly closely; the other was too far to identify. Also, I continued to flush out pheasants, about six of them. I did complete 70 miles but the last 10 began to get a little scary because of truck traffic. There is good news and bad news about northern North Dakota - oil. Oilrigs were everywhere along the road beginning just outside of Parshall, ND. They really destroy the beauty of the area. If the road into Williston tomorrow is as bad as the last 10 miles today, I will elect not to ride. I may have to wait to pass the 1000 miles ridden threshold until we leave ND (currently at 934 miles).
June 11
I was eager to get started this morning. It was cool, windy, rainy and foggy, but I was determined to ride to Williston. I was about 2 miles into the ride on Highway 1804 (named for the 1804 Lewis and Clark trip) when I realized it was a bad idea to be on the road. A big truck passed by me too close to my liking and the shoulder was only about 6 inches wide. All good judgment said don’t ride, so I didn’t. Jamye and I drove to Williston. On the way we saw a tandem bicycle with gear and a big caution sign on their back fender to attract attention. We called them dumb and dumber, reminded of the hilarious scene in the movie with Jim Carrey and Jeff Daniels on the small motorbike out in the middle of nowhere. When we arrived in Williston, I got a haircut and then we found the best burger joint in town - a small drugstore on Main Street. Later in the afternoon, we found a coffee shop and asked more about the oil drilling. The area has boomed because of enhanced drilling technologies. First, the ability to drill 20,000 feet got to a strata they call the ‘Bakken’. In Williston, it was affectionately known as, “rockin’ the Bakken”. Recently, they attained a capability to go deeper, and the new strata is called ‘the three forks’, referred to as, “fraken the forks”. Jamye and I had a pizza tonight and tomorrow will adventure the Badlands in Teddy Roosevelt National Park and later visit the historic Fort Union.
Sounds like you are making great progress! I think you might be able to combine a
ReplyDelete"Diners,Drive Ins, and Dives segment with this trip! All this talk about burgers in cattle country could be a winner!! Jamye I really applaud you for pulling the silver king---you can back into our driveway anytime. Miss you. Amelia sends great smiles and kisses!
I applaud your perseverence and determination in the bad weather! Good, bad, or indifferent, the image of you biking in the rain brings visions of Ft. Benning and your Ranger experience.
ReplyDeleteDid your mother ever tell you that you were a 'strong-willed' child?
You guys be careful out there!